Just a few pictures in the interest of time.
There were lots of buddhas, lanterns, the best Mexican food I've had since I moved to Asia (Vatos in Itaewon) and no visit to the DMZ! If you want to visit the DMZ you must clear your passport/identification information in advance. We did not plan ahead. As many of you have been reading in the news, the situation is a bit precarious so I wasn't too upset about the lost opportunity.
In broad strokes, people in Seoul dressed down, smiled more, said hello, and were much more open. You know you've gotten used to Tokyo when you see a sober couple holding hands or cuddling in public and find it remarkable. Seoul seemed to sprawl with long distances, wide roads and (happily) cheap cab fare.
I've been back in Tokyo for over a week now. The cherry blossoms are almost entirely gone (more on sakura later) and the weather is warming up a bit.